''Give a girl the right shoes and she can conquer the world! M.M.'' I quietly read the famous woman's words on the wall of the shoe store. I had no intention of conquering the world anytime soon, still, it wouldn't be a bad idea to buy a good pair of shoes. The shoemaker was a grumpy old man, but, I had to say that the shoes he made deserve praise. As a pampered daughter of a wealthy family, I know shoes and trust me, what I saw was too good for a dilapidated shop in a border town. The elegant heels lined up on the shelves and the fat old man in the dirty apron had nothing common at all. Shoemaker's eyes sparkled when he took a butterfly-like design on nails-like heels from the shelf to show me. ''I think the man has altocalciphilia,'' the fox said in my mind. ''You know, high heels fet